What can’t a man wear? Designers break convention at Paris Men’s Fashion Week

What can’t a man wear? Designers break convention at Paris Men’s Fashion Week

EDITOR’S NOTE:  CNN Style is one of the official media partners of Paris Fashion Week. See all coverage here.


Paris, France
 — 

If last year’s discourse over a pink sweater was anything to go by, it’s that attitudes to masculinity are still more fragile than one might think. In late 2025, a candyfloss-colored fair isle knit from J.Crew went viral when it was dragged into the center of a debate around whether “real men” could wear such a color. The firestorm was sparked by a post on X from conservative commentator Juanita Broaddrick, who said: “Are you kidding me?? Men, would you wear this $168 sweater?” The consensus was largely no – not because of the price tag but because it was viewed as demasculinizing. “More feminization of men. Stop it, J.Crew,” wrote one user. Another described it as worthy of a “Golden Girl.”

What might that crowd make, then, of the latest Paris menswear shows, where the clothes – which designers hope men will add to their wardrobes next fall – ranged from midi skirts to other separates in colors like burnt orange, dusty pink and magenta. It proposes a radical shift away from the neutral tones that generally tend to be worn by men, for their ability to be versatile and appear more sophisticated and timeless – qualities that were key to the “quiet luxury” trend that pervaded fashion in recent years. But who says red can’t be classic? That appears to be the view of brands including Japanese designer Ryota Iwai’s Auralee, Los Angeles-based Amiri, and Louis Vuitton, the French luxury label whose menswear line is designed by the creative multihyphenate Pharrell Williams.

While the designs shown on the catwalks are always more provocative than what one might widely find in the shops, the new propositions stand out amid the current climate where influencers in the “manosphere” (in other words, online misogyny), or those steeped in a “tradwife” lifestyle, have broadly rejected anything that veers away from traditional values and gender roles. There is also the eternal question of whether designers should create clothes for truly living in, or whether they should be encouraged to think big and present more complicated pieces that challenge everyday notions of style and taste.

For many years now, the heteronormative and gendered approach to fashion has been changing, with a more inclusive and fluid ideology emerging. See not only the runways, but also the red carpets where male celebrities from Harry Styles to Alexander Skarsgård have been bending gender rules. But if last year’s meltdown around a pink sweater is any indication, it’s that, for some male clients, an Issey Miyake boiler suit or a Dior brocade skirt might still be one step too far. Luckily, for them, there are still plenty of conventional alternatives to opt for instead.

See a selection of looks from the Fall-Winter 2026 shows.

Ties and tailored trousers featured across many of the menswear runway shows, including Ami Paris.
The label, founded by Alexandre Mattiussi, took inspiration from a Rubik's Cube for Fall-Winter 2026...
... and showed colorful, blocky pieces on the runway.
Among the guests at Louis Vuitton's menswear Fall-Winter 2026 show was Callum Turner...
... and John Legend, both dressed in earthy toned hues that matched the show set.
Louis Vuitton's men's creative director, Pharrell Williams, walks the grassy surrounds of a minimalist prefabricated home which formed the centerpiece of the brand's show.
Gradient knits at Louis Vuitton.
The models at Louis Vuitton carried monogrammed leather accessories...
... while the clothing, according to the brand, was designed with
Jonathan Anderson's second menswear collection for Dior took inspiration from
... and the late French couturier Paul Poiret, who was the subject of a major Musée des Arts Décoratifs exhibition that ran until January.
On the runway were anime wigs, glittery vests and printed trousers...
... as well as more fluid separates, velvets and jacquards.
Actors Joe Alwyn and Jamie Dornan attend the Dior Homme show on January 21.
They weren't the only celebrities spotted at the Dior Homme show. Robert Pattinson attended wearing Dior Archie boat shoes by Jonathan Anderson.
And British racing driver Lewis Hamilton appeared in a fur-trimmed coat with navy-style chunky gold buttons.
At Comme des Garçons Men's Fall-Winter 2026 show, models wore Hannibal Lecter-style face cages and monochromatic garments with ruffles and frills.
Los Angeles-based designer Mike Amiri has cultivated a loyal fanbase for his namesake brand...
... and for Fall-Winter 2026, his menswear took a more colorful, nonchalant spin.
Jeff Goldblum and Emilie Livingston kept the rain off their ornate outfits outside the Amiri show on January 22.
Backstage at the Dries Van Noten Men's Fall-Winter 2026 fashion show.
The brand is no stranger to color, print and knits.
Designer Julian Klausner succeeded the eponymous founder who retired in March 2024...
... and for Fall-Winter 2026, his second menswear collection for the label, showed florals, Fair Isle patterns, stripes and paisleys.
Lemaire's collections are often rooted in wearable, everyday clothing, made with supple yet sturdy fabric.
For Fall-Winter 2026, the brand presented sheepskin jackets, trench coats and mohair suits.
For Fall-Winter 2026 the Japanese designer chose to imbue bright colors like primary red and yellow to uplift his designs.
Colm Dillane, widely known as KidSuper, is based known for his vibrant, art-infused designs. A model is pictured wearing a hair clip and a leopard-print coat.
For Fall-Winter 2026, KidSuper explored cinematic archetypes. See Brad Pitt's fur coat in
The Fall-Winter 2026 Hermès show marked menswear designer Véronique Nichanian's last at the creative helm after 38 years.
Doing what she does best, Nichanian showed pragmatic outerwear and lots of leather separates and accessories.
Japanese label Ssstein, typically known for its clean lines and muted color palettes, showed a jacket in a jolt of bright red.
Romeo Beckham walked the runway for the eponymous American brand Willy Chavarria.
Chavarria's collections are often an amalgamation of workwear, sportswear and tailoring.
The theme of Issey Miyake's menswear brand, IM Men, was
Oversized scarves and beanies were paired with relaxed suits for a cosy feeling.
The show was staged at the College des  Bernardins, a 13th century schoolhouse in Paris.
Fresh off creating the viral windbreaker Doni Nahmias for
Masayuki Ino, the designer of Japanese label Doublet, has a keen eye for material innovation.
For Fall-Winter 2026, he created garments from bio-based resins, created by microorganisms that “eat” greenhouse gases.
The Sacai show featured monochrome shirts, ties and pants - but with a rebellious twist, sometimes loosened and unbuttoned, or with a trouser-skirt combo.
Sacai designer Chitose Abe is best known for pioneering a
For Fall-Winter 2026, Abe merged leather with quilt and shearling. Her complex pattern-cutting skills were honed while working under Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe at Comme des Garçons.
Pharrell Williams, musician Thundercat and footwear designer Salehe Bembury rub shoulders at the Sacai show.
The Jacquemus show – titled
The brand's signature silhouettes, such as rounded shoulders, nipped-in waists and circular hats, featured throughout.
Polka dots are often a pattern of choice for designer Simon Porte Jacquemus. For Fall-Winter 2026, he went a step further, creating dots that appeared to leap off its wearer.
Korean girl group, Illit, were matching ladies in red outside the Jacquemus show.
Also opting for red was Tamsin Egerton, who attended the Jacquemus show alongside husband Josh Hartnett in a matching pinstripe and tie outfit.
Musician Mahmood, Elton John and partner David Furnish attend the Jacquemus show at Paris' Picasso Museum.

link

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *