On February 28, 2025, Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky met in Washington with US President Donald Trump. The meeting was widely anticipated, building off Trump’s rhetoric regarding the US position on the ongoing Ukraine-Russia War, his attempts at creating a deal to end the war, and his longstanding issues with Ukraine’s leadership.
The meeting was not widely considered to be successful. Rather, it was viewed by many as a failure within its first few minutes. Trump and Vice President JD Vance, who also attended the meeting, criticized Zelensky for, so far, being ungrateful for US aid. The Ukrainian president fired back that the United States wasn’t doing enough to properly push to end the war.
In the end, Zelensky was kicked out of the White House, any agreement seemingly gone up in smoke, and the entire diplomacy debacle went viral in the news and on social media as people picked apart just what had gone wrong.
But regardless of where this went wrong or who was at fault, there was one particular aspect of the meeting with Zelensky, Trump, and Vance that, for many, stood out as being especially odd: Zelensky’s attire.
The Ukrainian president showed up to meet with his American counterpart dressed in black pants and boots, and a black sweatshirt featuring a small trident, the central element of Ukraine’s coat of arms.
Trump and Vance were, by comparison, dressed to the nines, wearing suits and ties.
Reportedly, the first thing Trump said to Zelensky when he arrived was a sarcastic “You’re all dressed up today.” But in a press conference before the meeting, a reporter took the issue further, demanding to know why Zelensky wasn’t in formal attire at a meeting with the US head of state.
According to some analysts and reports, this questioning marked a notable change in attitude ahead of the meeting.
But for many Israelis watching at home, this may have been confusing. After all, what exactly was wrong with Zelensky’s outfit?
For Israelis, this issue is actually reflective of a major culture difference with the West. The Jewish state is famously – or infamously – informal in terms of attire, compared to the rest of the Western world. Protocol for clothing in formal scenarios is often much laxer, and many Israelis don’t even own such a thing as a suit.
Even on Shabbat, when Jews traditionally dress more formally, and in official matters of politics such as attending the Knesset, the dress code appears far shy of what is expected elsewhere. And this is true in Israel’s capital as well.
But why is this the case?
Speaking to reporters before his meeting with Trump, Zelensky referred to a suit as a “costume.” While this may have at least partially been due to the fact the Ukrainian word for “suit” is kostyum, it also can be interpreted by some as considering that formal attire, such as a suit, is a “costume.”
Ahead of Purim, a holiday where Jews traditionally wear costumes, In Jerusalem takes a look at the history of formal wear, why Zelensky and some other world leaders have eschewed typical black-tie dress in certain situations, and why Israel’s view of formal dress code is the way it is.
Suited up and tied down
Some variation of the idea of formal wear in Western civilization has existed throughout much of history. In ancient Greece, most clothing was much simpler and less formal, though there was a distinctive cultural style of dress.
In Roman times, clothing became more regulated, as one’s attire was expected to reflect one’s position within Rome’s strict social hierarchy. Variations on the toga – the typical male citizen’s formal attire – were worn depending on one’s social status. Married women wore a stola, a long, pleated, sleeveless robe. However, as time went on, clothing styles in Rome changed, with the toga eventually being abandoned in favor of other garments.
In the Middle Ages, variety in clothing styles became much more pronounced among the wealthy, while the majority of people dressed practically.
Once the Early Modern Era began, however, a culture of formal wear began to emerge, specifically centered around royal courts. Resplendent finery became the norm and was something that could distinguish those who wore it from others of lower social rank.
These discrepancies were rather pronounced, with the most formally dressed peasants or freemen being practically indistinguishable from the lavishly adorned nobility.
Styles continued to change over time, and by the 17th century an idea began to emerge of a more standard formal style. For men, that started with justacorps (knee-length) jackets and riding breeches, topped off with a tricorn hat. However, the latter would soon be replaced by the bicorn hat, dress coat (or frock coat), and pantaloons, and soon even that would change further, with the rise of the top hat.
By the 20th century, the suit and tie as we know them had arrived, along with their variations.
Since then, men’s formal wear has remained largely unchanged. Formal wear became more widely available to the general public as prices went down, ready-to-wear clothing became more prominent, and means of climbing the social ladder opened up.
For women, the dress code had undergone far more prominent changes, with a wide variety of dresses and gowns available, coupled with accessories, such as bags, hats, and gloves. The changes led to a greater variety in options for women. However, they also led to greater dress restrictions and limitations, which set them apart from men.
Fashion icons such as Coco Chanel would later help thrust women’s style forward into the modern era, and today women’s formal wear can consist of jumpsuits and pant suits as much as of dresses and skirts.
A brief history of clothes for the Oval Office
US presidents have always worn suits or some variation thereof rather than the more elaborate outfits of European monarchs. This was a pattern set forth from the very beginning by George Washington, who wanted to use American materials rather than imported fabrics. The suit was also often viewed as creating a sense of general equality, indicating that the president was one of the people of the United States rather than an aristocrat.
Since then, presidents have all worn some kind of suit. There have been variations on the theme, all of which inevitably make a splash – such as John F. Kennedy’s colored shirts or Joe Biden’s aviator sunglasses.
It is likewise expected that visiting world leaders also dress formally when meeting a US president.
And then there was Zelensky.
To the Ukrainian president’s credit, he hasn’t worn a suit since the war with Russia began, regardless of circumstances, in what is a deliberate choice on his part. It has become an iconic part of his imagery as a wartime leader.
Furthermore, he isn’t the first world leader to meet with a US president dressed out of formal attire.
For example, in 1982 Liberian head of state Samuel Doe went to Washington and met with president Ronald Reagan. A picture that was spread across the media showed Reagan wearing a suit and tie, while Doe wore blue robes rather than following Western formal dress code.
As such, Zelensky is clearly not exclusive in eschewing formal attire when meeting a US president.
In Israel, however, the dress code is different.
Why is the Jewish state’s dress code so lax?
Israel has always been an informal country.
First names are more commonly used, punctuality is often joked about, and suits are rarely seen outside the ultra-Orthodox community, hoteliers, and lawyers in court. In fact, many Israelis may not even own a suit at all.
Part of the reason is the heat. Wearing a suit is less practical when it’s so hot outside. It is also a reflection of an overly personable and informal culture. Unlike other Western cultures such as the US and the United Kingdom, where formality is often enforced by social rules, both written and unwritten, Israel is much more focused on relationships and interpersonal communication.
Taxi drivers will spend entire drives chatting with their passengers; total strangers on public transportation will begin talking about family life or personal issues. No topic of conversation is off limits, and that level of informality extends to the dress code.
That doesn’t mean there is no dress code at all.
Visitors to the Knesset are restricted to wearing “dignified and appropriate clothing,” which the Knesset website elaborates on by saying “no tank/spaghetti-strap tops, crop tops, clothing with political slogans, shorts or three-quarter-length trousers, ripped trousers, short skirts or dresses, tracksuits or sweatpants, flip-flops, or clogs.”
In the 1970s, there were several incidents in which Knesset employees and reporters were forced to leave due to perceived dress code violations. Many of these incidents involved women who were seen as being dressed informally, if not immodestly. In a particular instance, a Jerusalem Post reporter at the time was denied entry to the Knesset for wearing sandals without socks.
In 2016, an attempt to bar short dresses and skirts from the Knesset sparked outrage; and in 2017 the Knesset changed its policy so that guards could only enforce dress-code rules on those of their own gender. The policy to ban short dresses was also criticized as inconsistent. Former Jerusalem Post writer Jamie Halper wrote about being barred from entering the Knesset in a dress that would have been acceptable at another parliamentary body, noting that she had been barred by a male security guard.
Knesset members also have a dress code of their own, though it is vague and mostly concerned with dressing with “dignity.” However, there have been attempts to enforce it. In 2019, then-Knesset director general Albert Saharovich reminded MKs that they must wear formal attire regardless of the heat and that wearing flip-flops, shorts, sleeveless shirts, short skirts, torn jeans, sweatpants, and crop-tops was forbidden for everyone, from MKs to reporters to visitors.
These rules have not always been enforced.
MKs would often arrive wearing shorts or other informal items of clothing. Berl Repetur, one of the early political figures in Israel, would regularly dress in casual clothes. As noted in a Maariv editorial in 1973, he would often go to the Knesset wearing shorts – and he wasn’t the only one.
However, members of Knesset sometimes took the opposite approach. Menachem Begin, for example, always wore a dark suit and tie, regardless of the sometimes sweltering Mediterranean weather. Wearing a suit and tie in public was a part of his persona, according to former Government Press Office head Ze’ev Chafets. This was reflective of the concept of hadar (“dignity”), a value espoused by the Betar movement, noted Joshua Krasna of the Foreign Policy Research Institute.
Even today, dress code violations continue. In late October 2024, Likud MK Tally Gotliv notably walked barefoot in the Knesset plenum, eschewing shoes entirely.
Additionally, in 2021 Israeli supermarket mogul Rami Levy addressed a Knesset committee dressed in a simple pair of pants and a white T-shirt. While he was thrown out of that meeting, it was for reasons unrelated to his attire. He had stood up and insulted MKs, calling them “crazy” and “deceitful.”
All this goes to show that there are still inconsistencies in the dress code for Israel’s parliament and its enforcement.
As Halper noted in her 2017 article about her experience of being barred for her dress, the inconsistencies in the policy are problematic and should be addressed.
“Inconsistencies such as these allow for a level of personal discretion on the part of guards that inconveniences people looking to enter the grounds, for work and tourism, and opens the door to sexism based on the guards’ own ideas about the implied promiscuity of any given outfit,” she wrote.
One thing is consistent, however: Jacket and tie are not required.
Many MKs eschew jackets entirely, and ties are more of a rarity. Even Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu forgoes ties on occasion, and sometimes, when outside the Knesset, he may wear a simple button-down shirt or even a polo shirt. Yoav Gallant, when he was defense minister, would often wear a black or blue button-down shirt, even at official meetings.
Regardless, if Zelensky were to arrive at the Knesset dressed as he did at the White House, he would doubtless be allowed to do so without issue – at least as long as his shirt had sleeves and he wasn’t wearing sandals.
Dressed for the occasion
Not so long ago, Jerusalemites, more conservative than the denizens of Tel Aviv, would dress up in their finery when going to the theater, attending synagogue services, participating in an event at the President’s Residence or the Knesset, or attending a wedding. These days, however, there are no hard and fast rules about what people should wear, and fashion for formal and semi-formal occasions runs the gamut from sophistication to grunge.
Invitations sometimes include a line that states “formal attire” or “business suits,” but it’s a useless request. Those who would dress formally don’t need to be asked, and those who wear torn jeans and unlaundered T-shirts will ignore any request to do otherwise.
The one place where nearly everyone is dressed in a business suit is at the King David Hotel on the day when new ambassadors present their letters of credence to Israel’s president. Afterward, an official reception called a vin d’honneur is held at the hotel so that the new ambassadors can meet their colleagues from other countries, as well as prominent businesspeople engaged in import-export with the countries of the new envoys.
Business suits are the uniform of diplomats, so if they get into something more casual it’s on the weekend or when they are at home, but not when they’re on duty.
Synagogue services are a different story. Some male congregants wear suits, and most female congregants wear skirts or dresses, but there are plenty of men who attend Orthodox services in casual attire, as well as females who wear pants, which used to be an absolute no-no.
At state dinners, it’s easy to spot first-time invitees. The women come in evening gowns, but not all the men wear suits, and when they do, not all wear ties.
At the theater, depending on the weather, few men wear jackets. Some women dress up but just as many dress down.
Most of the male MKs wear suits at the Knesset, though not all wear ties.
One who is rarely seen in a suit is Haim Katz, minister of tourism, national security, heritage and the periphery, the Negev, and the Galilee, who is almost always seen in an open-necked shirt. Several years ago, Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu ordered him to remove his sports shirt and to dress appropriately for cabinet meetings.
In 2007, Knesset speaker Dalia Itzik imposed a dress code, barring entrance to the Knesset to anyone (including staff) wearing a sleeveless T-shirt, short pants, or, in the case of women, sporting a bare midriff or a skirt above the knee. Men were also barred from wearing sandals.
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