On October 4th, 2025, Stefano Gallici, creative director at Ann Demeulemeester, infused his latest collection with flashes of colour and sporty elements, drawing his inspiration from his childhood dreams.
A collection blending romance and punk
As Paris Fashion Week reached its peak on Saturday, October 4th, Numéro slipped through the crowd guests and onlookers eager to see the Ann Demeulemeester show in the 6th arrondissement. At the helm of the house since 2023, Italian designer Stefano Gallici once again set his show against a pitch-black backdrop and a dark soundscape that perfectly matched the rainy weather outside.
Just as in his Spring/Summer 2025 show, a live metal performance driven by electric guitar vibrations kicked things off. Then, vocals sounding like the foretelling of an imminent apocalypse arose. On each seat, guests found a small booklet, titled Wall of Reference, containing the moodboard for the collection. A blend of inspirations ranging from romantic novelist Jane Austen to rock icon Jim Morrison and the punk band The Velvet Underground.
A sportswear wardrobe takes shape at Ann Demeulemeester
For his fifth show, Stefano Gallici stays true to his rock, romantic, indie sleaze vision, while reworking some of his signature pieces. That includes the tailored waistcoat and boxing shoes.
But if anyone had predicted that pink would make its way onto the runway, no one would have believed it. Yet, for the first time, Stefano Gallici moves beyond black and white, and the muted shades he had cautiously used in the past. On brocade coats and officer jackets, pink and red reign supreme, bringing a touch of softness to the overall darkness.
Less severe, the silhouettes stem from Stefano Gallici’s long-buried passion – basketball. Athletic boxers step forward alongside loose jerseys, paired with tracksuit-style trousers and raw denim, all contributing to a more casual feel throughout the collection.
Still, empire-waist dresses remain, as do the diaphanous Victorian blouses and feathered details, exemplified by the crowns scattered throughout the show. The final look, a voluminous corseted lace dress layered over sportswear-style trousers and paired with biker boots, one of Ann Demeulemeester’s signatures, perfectly captures what Stefano Gallici set out to express – a story full of contrasts and constant transformation.
All the looks from the Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2026 show
link