What Is Vogue World: Paris? The Stories and Mood Boards Behind This Once-in-a-Lifetime Event

What Is Vogue World: Paris? The Stories and Mood Boards Behind This Once-in-a-Lifetime Event

Two fictional characters informed the gear worn by cyclists from the French national team. Their mask-like headwear nods to an antihero of crime fiction dreamed up by writers Marcel Allain and Pierre Souvestre, Fantômas. “He’s clearly a thief but a very chic thief,” jokes Samson. The oil black silk bodysuits reference the getup of silent-film actor Musidora (a.k.a. Jeanne Roques), who is especially known for playing the vampish Irma Vep in Les Vampires.

Image may contain Advertisement Poster and Batman

Fantômas poster, 1947

Photo: LMPC/Getty Images

Image may contain Adult Person Advertisement Poster Furniture Face Head Book Comics Publication Animal and Canine

Les Vampires poster, circa 1915

Photo: ullstein bild Dtl./Getty Images

1930s: Track and Field

Cristóbal Balenciaga moved his couture house in 1937, and the following looks by the current creative director, Demna, are re-creations that he oversaw of two looks lost to time. Using photographs, a sketch, and a newspaper clipping, the house resurrected a Velásquez-inspired fringe dress from fall 1939 and a graphic stunner in black and white slipper satin from fall 1940. Read more here.

Balenciaga by Demna

Image may contain Fashion Adult Person Clothing Dress Formal Wear Evening Dress Long Sleeve Sleeve and Footwear

Balenciaga, fall 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Balenciaga spring 2024 readytowear

Balenciaga, spring 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

The remake of Balenciaga’s fall 1940 couture dress

Image may contain Isabeli Fontana Accessories Formal Wear Tie Clothing Footwear Shoe Dress Person and Adult

The fall 1940 Balenciaga remake

Photo: F.Fior – I.Montag – A.Lucioni – D.Oberrauch – S.Dragone / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Marie Laurencin Art Drawing Person Clothing Dress Text Face and Head

From the Balenciaga archives

Illustration: Courtesy of Archives Balenciaga Paris

The remake of the Balenciaga fall 1939 couture dress

Image may contain Mariacarla Boscono Clothing Dress Adult Person Fashion Formal Wear Gown Long Sleeve and Sleeve

The fall 1939 Balenciaga remake

Photo: F.Fior – I.Montag – A.Lucioni – D.Oberrauch – S.Dragone / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Art Painting Adult Person Wedding Animal Canine Dog Mammal Pet Face Head Clothing and Glove

The panniers on Balenciaga’s dress were inspired by Las Meninas by Velásquez.

Photo: UniversalImagesGroup / Getty Images

Image may contain Adult Person Art and Painting

A series of looks in black and white evoke Old Hollywood glamour.

Image may contain Fashion Clothing Dress Formal Wear Adult Person Evening Dress and Gown

Avellano, fall 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Kristy Sparow/Getty Images

Image may contain Formal Wear Adult Person Clothing Dress Fashion Costume Suit and Coat

Rick Owens, fall 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Owenscorp

Image may contain Clothing Apparel Evening Dress Fashion Gown Robe Human Person Dress Sleeve and Long Sleeve

Olivier Theyskens, spring 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Olivier Theyskens

Image may contain Adult Person Wedding Clothing Dress Fashion Formal Wear Gown Wedding Gown Floor Face and Head

Givenchy, fall 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni – Gorunway.com / Courtesy of Givenchy

Mad for Madeleine Vionnet

Madeleine Vionnet is credited with mastering the bias-cutting technique that defined, in part, the long, sensuous silhouette of the ’30s. Her kind of glamour was inimitable and based on technique. Maison Margiela’s 2024 couture look nods to Vionnet.

Image may contain Lisa Fonssagrives Clothing Dress Fashion Formal Wear Gown Art Adult Person Wedding and Drawing

Two Madeleine Vionnet evening dresses

Illustration by René Bouët-Willaumez, Vogue, April 1, 1936

Maison Martin Margiela spring 2024 couture

Maison Martin Margiela, spring 2024 couture

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Homage à Dietrich

“In the ’30s Marlene Dietrich was forbidden to enter Paris by the mayor because she wore pants,” Samson says.

Image may contain Clothing Formal Wear Suit People Person Adult Performer Solo Performance and Electrical Device

Keiona Revlon performing in Nina Ricci

Photo: F.Fior – I.Montag – A.Lucioni – D.Oberrauch – S.Dragone / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Marlene Dietrich Face Head Person Adult Smoke Clothing Hat Photography and Portrait

Marlene Dietrich, 1930

Photo: Eugene Robert Richee/Getty Images

Image may contain Clothing Formal Wear Suit Tuxedo Coat Fashion Adult Person Accessories and Tie

Nina Ricci, fall 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Nina Ricci

Image may contain Kendall Jenner Fashion Adult Person Clothing Footwear and Sandal

Kendall Jenner in a dress by Burc Akyol, 2022

Photo: Steve Granitz/FilmMagic

This image may contain Clothing Apparel Morgane Dubled Evening Dress Gown Robe Fashion Human Person and Sleeve

Armani Privé, fall 2005 couture

Photo: Marcio Madeira

Balenciaga spring 2024 readytowear

Balenciaga, spring 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

Image may contain Fashion Clothing Dress Adult Person Formal Wear Footwear High Heel and Shoe

Mugler, fall 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Snazzy Schiaparelli

The house of Schiaparelli moved to the Place Vendôme in 1935. The Italian-born designer was noted for her penchant for waist-up dressing and her witty collaborations with the Surrealists. A skeleton dress made with Salvador Dalí in 1938 has been reinterpreted by the current creative director, Daniel Roseberry. Read more about Schiaparelli.

Image may contain Clothing Hat Person Blouse Face and Head

Elsa Schiaparelli in her atelier on the Place Vendôme, 1935

Photo: Keystone-France/Getty Images

Image may contain Banister Handrail Human Person Art Maila Nurmi Drawing and Railing

Schiaparelli in her atelier

Illustration by Cecil Beaton, Vogue, March 1, 1935

Schiaparelli spring 2024 couture

Schiaparelli, spring 2024 couture

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Schiaparelli spring 2024 couture

Schiaparelli, spring 2024 couture

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

FKA twigs Causes a Flap in Alexandre Vauthier

“Wearing head-to-toe Alexandre Vauthier, she brought a modern-day flapper energy to the Les Années Folles section of the evening, posing and vamping around the Colonne Vendôme in the maison’s vertiginous platforms,” wrote Hayley Maitland. Read more here.

Image may contain Clothing Footwear High Heel Shoe Adult Person and Glove

FKA twigs in Alexandre Vauthier

Photo: F.Fior – I.Montag – A.Lucioni – D.Oberrauch – S.Dragone / Gorunway.com

Maluma Out-Gatsbys Gatsby in Thom Browne

Image may contain Maluma Clothing Formal Wear Suit Tuxedo Blazer Coat Jacket Pedestrian Person and Adult

Maluma in Thom Browne

Photo: F.Fior – I.Montag – A.Lucioni – D.Oberrauch – S.Dragone / Gorunway.com

The Mad Dash: Course de Garçons de Café

“I was wondering how we could connect track and field with fashion and Paris,” Samson says, “and I remember that in every city in France since the beginning of the 20th century, there is a run, Course des Cafés. Each café brings one waiter with a tray, some glasses, water, and wine, and the waiters compete by speed walking in the streets. It was just relaunched in Paris two months ago.”

Image may contain City People Person Urban Downtown Electronics Mobile Phone Phone Adult Clothing and Footwear

The participants represented 16 Parisian cafés and wore Fursac outfits.

Photo: Marc Piasecki/Getty Images

1940s: Aquatics

This section of the show was “very South of France inspired,” said Samson. The stripes “are emblematic of the French beach houses, and it is also the 10-year anniversary of a collection from Jacquemus called Les Parasols de Marseille. These parasols always have big stripes, so we asked him if we could give this a modern take [and consider] the influence with the bikini.”

Image may contain Sabrina Carpenter Imaan Hammam Adult Person Clothing Dress Footwear High Heel and Shoe

Sabrina Carpenter in Jacquemus

Photo: F.Fior – I.Montag – A.Lucioni – D.Oberrauch – S.Dragone / Gorunway.com

This image may contain Clothing Apparel Dress Human Person Skirt Footwear Female Shoe and Woman

Jacquemus, spring 2015 ready-to-wear

Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages.com

Image may contain Human Person Clothing Apparel Fashion Runway Footwear and Shoe

Jacquemus, spring 2015 ready-to-wear

Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages.com

Image may contain Clothing Swimwear Adult Person Footwear Shoe Accessories Formal Wear and Tie

Chanel, resort 2025

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Adult Person Pedestrian Clothing Footwear Shoe Accessories Bag Handbag Standing and Pants

LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi, spring 2025 menswear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Adult Person Clothing Footwear Shoe and Pedestrian

A model in a Quicksilver wet suit and Chanel shoes with a Chanel surfboard.

Photo: F.Fior – I.Montag – A.Lucioni – D.Oberrauch – S.Dragone / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Clothing Long Sleeve Sleeve Accessories Bag Handbag Adult Person Glasses Footwear and High Heel

Acne Studios, fall 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Miu Miu spring 2024 readytowear

Miu Miu, spring 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

This image may contain Clothing Apparel Human Person and Fashion

Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2003 couture

Photo: Style.com

Image may contain Jelena Noura Gigi Hadid Human Person Runway Clothing Apparel and Fashion

Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2020 couture

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Duran Lantink spring 2024 readytowear

Duran Lantink, spring 2024 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Yusra Mardini Clothing Costume Person Sphere Adult Balloon Footwear Shoe and Hat

A model in Fifi Chachnil

Photo: F.Fior – I.Montag – A.Lucioni – D.Oberrauch – S.Dragone / Gorunway.com

“Right after the war in 1946, just before the New Look, people really struggled, of course, but wanted some lightness,” says Samson. “The bikini was designed in 1946 by two designers, Jacques Heim and Louis Réard.” Synchronized swimming and Esther Williams’s movies were also touchstones.

link

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *