Milan Men’s Fashion Week SS25: six trends to know

Milan Fashion Week was a whirlwind of creativity and innovation, from both the big design houses and rising talents. Highlights included the return of Moschino to the menswear schedule under new creative director Adrian Appiolaza, and the highly anticipated Milanese debut of London designer Martine Rose, known for her nightlife-inspired collections. London Fashion Week designer David Koma also took to Italy to launch his label’s menswear line, inspired by dance and formation.

Luca Magliano returned to the schedule with his label after a successful stint at Florence menswear trade show Pitti Uomo last season, and Massimo Giorgetti, founder and creative director of MSGM, celebrated the brand’s 15th anniversary with a show that featured artists splattering paint behind glass casings, echoing the vibrant colour palette used throughout the SS25 collection.

Fendi commemorated its centenary with a varsity-themed collection by creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi, blending heritage with contemporary flair. British designers such as JW Anderson and Dunhill made an impact with luxurious fabrics, bold silhouettes and modern tailoring.

The grand finale to Milan Men’s Fashion Week came with Gucci’s highly anticipated  collection – the second under the creative direction of Sabato De Sarno. Earlier on the same day, former Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele surprised fashion fans by releasing a 170-page lookbook for resort 2025 as his debut for the house of Valentino.

See the leading trends from Milan Men’s Fashion Week below.

Return of the mac

The trench coat reigned supreme at Milan Fashion Week SS25 and was shown in a variety of styles. Moschino presented oversized with a contemporary edge, often cinched at the waist for a structured silhouette. Neil Barrett embraced a relaxed, slouchy aesthetic that embodied urban sophistication. Prada maintained its Italian elegance with refined mac styles, featuring clean lines suitable for day-to-evening wear.

Fendi introduced modern reinventions, playing with pastel hues and relaxed designs that brought a fresh twist to this staple. Dolce & Gabbana added opulence with luxurious silk iterations, elevating the trench coat into a statement piece, while Gucci made a bold statement with a long leather design in a striking lime, providing a dramatic alternative to the everyday classic.

Purple reign

Soft lilac and purple tones emerged as a prominent hue, providing a serene contrast amid the bolder colour palettes of the week. Moschino embraced the purple tone with relaxed silhouettes and bohemian flair, while Simon Cracker experimented with a “dye gone wrong” technique for a unique artistic touch.

Emporio Armani infused lavender scents into its lilac-themed designs, featuring retro, 1970s-inspired co-ordinated looks. JW Anderson introduced cosy oversized padded jackets and relaxed fine-knit jumpers with lace trim necklines.

Gucci effortlessly incorporated lavender tones into numerous designs, from relaxed shirts, to smart day jackets and loose knit tops, taking casual chic to the next level.

Out of office

Tailoring evolved beyond traditional office wear to become everyday stylish essentials at Milan Fashion Week SS25. MSGM showcased this shift with relaxed tailoring, featuring untucked shirts and pinstripe details juxtaposed with casual pieces for a laid-back aesthetic.

John Richmond combined voluminous trousers and smart blazers adorned with leather accents, adding a rebellious edge to classic tailoring. Emporio Armani offered a casual approach with slouchy suits and belted lightweight blazers, paired effortlessly with bulky boots for a balanced blend of refinement and off-duty style.

Fendi focused on sophisticated yet relaxed co-ord ensembles that embodied contemporary style, merging professional aesthetics with everyday wearability. Gucci redefined city attire by pairing boxy shorts with cropped blazer-style jackets, see-through polos and stand-out patent pointed-toe Chelsea boots, injecting an edgier modern take into traditional businesswear.

Show some skin

The leather jacket remained a must-have item at Milan Fashion Week SS25, balancing timeless luxury with contemporary style across various collections. Martine Rose showed edgy, oversized biker jackets, blending streetwear influences with impeccable craftsmanship. Prada revisited classic 1950s-inspired silhouettes with fitted cuts and cropped sleeves for a sophisticated yet relaxed appeal.

Neil Barrett elevated leather jackets with sleek, buttery leather finishes and clean lines that emphasised modernity and versatility. JW Anderson’s playful interpretation incorporated bold colours and avant garde details of oversized structured pockets and metal elements into this key wardrobe piece. Gucci did not disappoint, updating this staple with luxurious chocolate brown textured leather in a relaxed, retro-inspired oversized style, fit for any occasion.

That ’90s show

Milan Fashion Week SS25 revived the rebellious spirit of the 1990s with a contemporary twist, celebrating self-expression through bold slogans, graphic prints and acid bright colours. Magliano and Prada teamed graphic T-shorts and sweaters with trousers and smart blazers, creating a relaxed and refined aesthetic.

Moschino and Martine Rose injected playfulness with a quirky spin including smiley faces and neon splatters of paint finishes, that gave a nostalgic yet fresh approach.

Campus cool

The varsity trend reimagined classic collegiate style with a modern twist. Emporio Armani paid homage to equestrian influences, combining tailored pieces in earthy tones and luxurious fabrics for a sophisticated sporty aesthetic.

Fendi celebrated its centenary by incorporating its double-F emblem into varsity-inspired knitwear and outerwear, blending heritage with contemporary design. Prada and Magliano offered polished interpretations with fitted cardigans, preppy shorts, and trousers in soft pastel hues and with playful motifs.

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